Coverage and Quantity

How much Durabak do I need for my boat deck?

Size the order by measuring the deck, since coverage depends on the area, not on a fixed boat size. Textured Durabak covers about 60 square feet per gallon at the recommended two coats; smooth Durabak covers about 75 square feet per gallon at two coats. Measure the length by width of every area to be coated, total the square footage, then divide by 60 for a textured finish or by 75 for smooth.

There are two common deck approaches. For maximum grip, run two coats of textured Durabak, and for an even rougher non-slip surface add DuraGrip silicon carbide to the mix. For grip that is easier to clean and gentler on bare feet, many boaters lay a first coat of textured Durabak and top it with a coat of smooth Durabak. As an example, a 150 square foot deck in textured-only takes two gallons and two quarts; the same deck done as one textured coat plus one smooth top coat takes one gallon and one quart of textured for the base and one gallon of smooth for the top.

Order a little over the calculated amount. Running short mid-job means waiting on more product and re-prepping for the top coat, and any leftover is usable on other projects.

How much Durabak do I need for the exterior of my Ford F-150, Dodge Ram, Chevrolet Silverado, or other large truck?

Plan on roughly two to three gallons of textured Durabak for the exterior of a large truck, or about two gallons and a quart or two of smooth, but size the order by measuring rather than by truck model. Measure the surface area of every body panel in square feet, total them, then divide by 60 for textured or by 75 for smooth to get the number of gallons. Textured Durabak covers about 60 square feet per gallon at the recommended two coats and smooth covers about 75 square feet per gallon at two coats.

Order an extra quart when the budget allows. Running out before the top coat is finished forces a wait and a less consistent result, and any extra is usable on rims, bumpers, wheel wells, rock sliders, roll bars, racks, and undercoating.

How much Durabak do I need for my truck bed?

Size a bed order by measuring the floor and all four interior walls, then dividing the total by the coverage rate. Textured Durabak covers about 60 square feet per gallon at the recommended two coats (a quart covers about 15 square feet); smooth covers about 75 square feet per gallon at two coats. As a rough guide for standard pickups at two coats of textured: a regular bed (about 5 feet 7 inches to 6 feet) takes one gallon, a long bed (about 7 feet) takes one gallon and one quart, and an extra-long bed (about 8 feet) takes one gallon and two quarts.

For a flat bed or any non-standard area, measure the full surface you plan to coat, include the rims and sills, total the square footage, and divide by 60 for textured or by 75 for smooth.

How much does Durabak cost?

Durabak is sold factory-direct by the quart and the gallon through the online store, where current per-unit pricing is shown for each color and size. The per-unit price is the same whether you order one gallon or several. For volume or bulk orders, a business account offers a volume discount: contact the team by phone at 303-690-7190 or through the contact form to set it up. See the business-account question for details.

How much coverage will I get with one gallon of Durabak?

One gallon of textured Durabak covers about 60 square feet at the recommended two coats, and one gallon of smooth covers about 75 square feet at two coats. Actual coverage varies with surface porosity, since a rough or porous substrate absorbs more material. To size a job, measure the area, total the square footage, and divide by 60 for textured or by 75 for smooth rather than estimating from a vehicle size.

How do I measure square footage?

Multiply the length of the area by its width. For example, 10 feet long by 6 feet wide equals 60 square feet. Add up the square footage of every separate surface (floor, walls, tailgate, sills) to get the total area to coat.

How much product should I purchase?

Size the purchase by measuring the area and dividing by the coverage rate, not by a fixed bed size. Textured Durabak covers about 60 square feet per gallon at the recommended two coats and smooth covers about 75 square feet per gallon at two coats. Measure the surface, total the square footage, divide by 60 for textured or by 75 for smooth, and order a little over the result so the second coat is not cut short.

Does Durabak come in 5 gallon containers?

No, Durabak is not sold in 5 gallon containers. It is a moisture-cured product, and a 5 gallon container cannot be resealed reliably enough to keep it from curing in the can. It comes in one gallon and one quart sizes.

How many gallons are produced from each batch?

Each batch produces 200 gallons.

How many rollers are needed for each gallon?

Plan on at least one roller per gallon. Each gallon ships with two rollers.

What size containers does it come in?

Durabak comes in one gallon and one quart containers.

Surface Prep by Material

How do I apply Durabak onto epoxy?

Durabak bonds to cured epoxy once the surface is clean, rough, and dry. Wash with a non-chlorinated household detergent (Spic n Span or similar), rough the surface up with 120 grit sandpaper, then wipe with Xylene (Xylol) and let it flash off completely before coating. Do not open the can until the surface is prepped: Durabak begins to cure on contact with air, so stir it well, pour a portion into a tray, and keep the lid on while not in use.

Roll the first coat with a Durabak stipple roller sleeve (textured) or a 3/16 inch mohair short-nap roller (smooth), and cut in corners with a brush. The product should be drippy and self-leveling; if it has thickened you can add up to 15% Xylene to bring it back. A second coat goes on 1 to 24 hours after the first, once it is at light tack (nominal window 6 to 12 hours). Wait 6 to 12 hours before walking on it, and allow about 4 days for full cure before heavy use. Apply between 32 and 95 degrees F, with the substrate at least 45 degrees F; around 60 degrees F or warmer is ideal.

One gallon of textured Durabak covers about 60 square feet at two coats; smooth covers about 75 square feet per gallon at two coats.

Does Durabak bond to rubber?

Yes, Durabak bonds to rubber with standard prep. Clean the surface with a non-chlorinated household detergent, rough it up with 40 grit sandpaper, then wipe with Xylene (Xylol) and let it dry fully before coating. Stir the can well before use and keep the lid on between coats, since Durabak starts to cure on contact with air.

Roll the first coat with a Durabak stipple roller sleeve (textured) or a 3/16 inch mohair short-nap roller (smooth), and brush corners and tight spots. Keep the product drippy and self-leveling; thin with up to 15% Xylene if it has thickened. Recoat 1 to 24 hours after the first coat once it is at light tack (nominal window 6 to 12 hours), wait 6 to 12 hours before foot traffic, and allow about 4 days for full cure. Apply between 32 and 95 degrees F, with the substrate at least 45 degrees F; around 60 degrees F or warmer is ideal.

One gallon of textured Durabak covers about 60 square feet at two coats; smooth covers about 75 square feet per gallon at two coats.

Will Durabak bond to plastic?

Durabak bonds well to many plastics, but run a small adhesion test first because plastic formulations vary widely. If the test shows you need a primer, use one that bonds to that specific plastic and is compatible with overcoating with polyurethane.

To prep: clean with a non-chlorinated household detergent, rough the surface up with 40 grit sandpaper, then wipe with Xylene (Xylol) and let it dry fully before coating. Stir the can well and keep the lid on between coats, since Durabak cures on contact with air.

Roll the first coat with a Durabak stipple roller sleeve (textured) or a 3/16 inch mohair short-nap roller (smooth), and brush the corners. Keep the product drippy; thin with up to 15% Xylene if needed. Recoat 1 to 24 hours after the first coat once it is at light tack (nominal window 6 to 12 hours), wait 6 to 12 hours before foot traffic, and allow about 4 days for full cure. Apply between 32 and 95 degrees F, with the substrate at least 45 degrees F; around 60 degrees F or warmer is ideal. One gallon of textured Durabak covers about 60 square feet at two coats; smooth covers about 75 square feet per gallon at two coats.

How can I put Durabak on a concrete floor?

Concrete must be clean, dry, profiled, and free of any sealer or curing residue before Durabak goes on. New concrete should be fully cured for at least 30 days, have a brush or hand-troweled finish (test for adhesion if it was power troweled), be cleaned with a citric cleaner or equivalent, rinsed and dried, then wiped with Xylene and allowed to flash off immediately before coating. If the concrete contains plasticizers, an adhesion test is essential because a primer may be required.

Old concrete can be prepped three ways: shotblast and rinse with water; abrade with a scarifying machine to leave a rough surface and brush off; or acid-etch with a 45% to 50% muriatic acid solution mixed with 3 to 4 parts water, agitated with a stiff deck brush for about 10 minutes to open the pores. If you acid-etch, neutralize with a 5% ammonia/water rinse, because leftover acid residue can cause delamination. Dry fully, brush off all residue, then wipe with Xylene and let it evaporate before coating.

For oil-soaked concrete, open the pores with muriatic acid and rinse, apply an oil emulsifier and agitate with a deck brush for 10 minutes, rinse once with hot water and twice with cold, dry completely, then wipe with Xylene and let it evaporate. For chemically soaked or unusually difficult concrete, contact Durabak. Sealed concrete should be adhesion-tested first; if it delaminates, the sealer must be removed mechanically by shot blasting or scarifying. A primer is not usually needed on concrete but can improve adhesion.

Roll the first coat with a Durabak stipple roller sleeve (textured) or a short-nap roller (smooth), and brush corners. Keep the product drippy; thin with up to 15% Xylene if needed. Recoat 1 to 24 hours after the first coat once it is at light tack (nominal window 6 to 12 hours), wait 6 to 12 hours before walking on it, and allow about 4 days for full cure. Apply between 32 and 95 degrees F, with the substrate at least 45 degrees F; around 60 degrees F or warmer is ideal. One gallon of textured Durabak covers about 60 square feet at two coats; smooth covers about 75 square feet per gallon at two coats.

How do I prep bare metal for Durabak, and what primers are needed for metal?

Durabak works well on bare metal, and light or soft metals like aluminum should be primed with a metal etch primer first. Use Zinc Chromate, Zinc Phosphate, or Durabak's Metcote primer. For steel or iron, run an adhesion test to confirm the bond.

To prep: clean with a non-chlorinated household detergent, rough the surface up with 40 grit sandpaper, then apply a self-etching primer that is compatible with polyurethane (Zinc Chromate or Metcote). Do not use Xylene on bare metal that is being primed.

Once the primer is ready, stir the can well, roll the first coat with a Durabak stipple roller sleeve (textured) or a short-nap roller (smooth), and brush the corners. Keep the product drippy; thin with up to 15% Xylene if needed. Recoat 1 to 24 hours after the first coat once it is at light tack (nominal window 6 to 12 hours), wait 6 to 12 hours before foot traffic, and allow about 4 days for full cure. Apply between 32 and 95 degrees F, with the substrate at least 45 degrees F; around 60 degrees F or warmer is ideal. One gallon of textured Durabak covers about 60 square feet at two coats; smooth covers about 75 square feet per gallon at two coats.

Can I apply Durabak to wood?

Yes, Durabak bonds well to wood. Clean with a non-chlorinated household detergent, rough the surface up with 80 grit sandpaper, then wipe with Xylene (Xylol) and let it dry fully before coating. Stir the can well and keep the lid on between coats, since Durabak cures on contact with air.

Wood is absorbent and usually needs an extra coat for a full finish. Roll the first coat with a Durabak stipple roller sleeve, brush the corners, recoat 1 to 24 hours after the first coat once it is at light tack (nominal window 6 to 12 hours), wait 6 to 12 hours before foot traffic, and allow about 4 days for full cure. Keep the product drippy; thin with up to 15% Xylene if needed. Apply between 32 and 95 degrees F, with the substrate at least 45 degrees F; around 60 degrees F or warmer is ideal.

Because wood draws in the first coat, plan on coverage lower than the standard two-coat rate and size your order by measuring the area.

Can I put Durabak on bare aluminum?

Yes, and bare aluminum should always be primed with a metal etch primer such as Zinc Chromate or Metcote, since Durabak does not bond to bare aluminum on its own. These steps apply to any bare aluminum, not just boats.

Clean with a non-chlorinated household detergent, rough the surface up with 80 to 100 grit sandpaper, then apply a self-etching primer that is compatible with polyurethane. Do not use Xylene on the bare aluminum being primed. If there is old carpet glue, sanding with 80 to 100 grit removes most of it; trace glue residue normally will not stop Durabak from bonding to properly prepped aluminum.

Once the primer is ready, stir the can well, roll the first coat with a Durabak stipple roller sleeve (textured) or a short-nap roller (smooth), and brush the corners. Keep the product drippy; thin with up to 15% Xylene if needed. Recoat 1 to 24 hours after the first coat once it is at light tack (nominal window 6 to 12 hours), wait 6 to 12 hours before foot traffic, and allow about 4 days for full cure. Apply between 32 and 95 degrees F, with the substrate at least 45 degrees F; around 60 degrees F or warmer is ideal. One gallon of textured Durabak covers about 60 square feet at two coats; smooth covers about 75 square feet per gallon at two coats.

Can I put Durabak on painted aluminum?

Yes, Durabak bonds to sound painted aluminum with a good scuff. Clean with a non-chlorinated household detergent, rough the surface up with 80 grit sandpaper, then wipe with Xylene (Xylol) and let it dry fully before coating.

Stir the can well, roll the first coat with a Durabak stipple roller sleeve, and brush the corners. Keep the product drippy; thin with up to 15% Xylene if needed. Recoat 1 to 24 hours after the first coat once it is at light tack (nominal window 6 to 12 hours), wait 6 to 12 hours before foot traffic, and allow about 4 days for full cure. Apply between 32 and 95 degrees F, with the substrate at least 45 degrees F; around 60 degrees F or warmer is ideal. One gallon of textured Durabak covers about 60 square feet at two coats; smooth covers about 75 square feet per gallon at two coats.

How do I put Durabak on my aluminum boat?

The prep depends on whether the aluminum is bare or painted. For bare aluminum, prime with a metal etch primer (Zinc Chromate or Metcote) after a 40 grit scuff, since Durabak does not bond to bare aluminum on its own. For painted aluminum, scuff with 80 grit and wipe with Xylene before coating. See the bare-aluminum and painted-aluminum prep answers for the full step-by-step.

How do I apply Durabak on my fiberglass boat or over gel coat?

Durabak bonds to fiberglass and gel coat with a solid mechanical scuff. Clean with a non-chlorinated household detergent, rough the surface up with 80 to 120 grit sandpaper, then wipe with Xylene (Xylol) and let it dry fully before coating. Stir the can well and keep the lid on between coats, since Durabak cures on contact with air.

Roll the first coat with a Durabak stipple roller sleeve (textured) or a 3/16 inch mohair short-nap roller (smooth), and brush the corners. Keep the product drippy; thin with up to 15% Xylene if needed. Recoat 1 to 24 hours after the first coat once it is at light tack (nominal window 6 to 12 hours), wait 6 to 12 hours before foot traffic, and allow about 4 days for full cure. Apply between 32 and 95 degrees F, with the substrate at least 45 degrees F; around 60 degrees F or warmer is ideal. One gallon of textured Durabak covers about 60 square feet at two coats; smooth covers about 75 square feet per gallon at two coats.

Does oil-treated wood need to be primed?

Yes, oil treatment normally inhibits bonding, so it needs a primer. Use a primer designed for oil-treated wood that is also compatible with overcoating with polyurethane.

Can a solvent epoxy primer be used on the metal before applying Durabak?

Yes, a solvent-based epoxy primer can be used on metal under Durabak, as long as it is compatible with polyurethane topcoats. Follow the primer manufacturer's overcoat window before applying Durabak.

Can an epoxy be coated over Durabak?

Yes, epoxy can be applied over Durabak. Rough the cured Durabak up aggressively first, around 30 grit, so the epoxy gets a strong mechanical bite.

Can Durabak be applied over new fiberglass?

Yes, but the fiberglass must be fully cured before Durabak is applied.

Will Durabak stick to HDPE (high-density polyethylene)?

HDPE is a poor candidate, because there is no chemical bond to high-density polyethylene, only mechanical adhesion is possible. Polyethylene has historically been problematic, so unless you can source a primer that bonds to it, expect difficulty. Heavy sanding with P100 grit or coarser followed by a solvent wipe may produce enough mechanical adhesion, but it remains a challenge.

What is the recommended prep and application for Durabak as an undercoat?

Rough the surface up as thoroughly as possible with 30 to 40 grit, then spray Durabak on with an undercoating gun.

How do you prep a surface before clear coating, and won't roughing it up show through?

It depends on the surface. On naturally rough material like wood, a light scuff with no primer is enough and will not stand out. On a smooth decorative surface such as a patterned vinyl tile, you would need to scuff more aggressively, which may not be worth it on a finish you want to keep visible. Match the level of roughing to the surface.

Can Durabak be applied after a sulfuric acid wash on aluminum?

Yes, but aluminum should be primed regardless. Do the sulfuric acid wash and rinse, then apply an aluminum etching primer before Durabak.

Can Durabak be applied over POR-15?

Yes, Durabak is compatible with POR-15. Rough the POR-15 up with 80 grit, wipe with Xylene, and apply Durabak.

Does Durabak bond to primed steel directly?

Yes, Durabak normally bonds to any primer with a light scuff using 80 or 100 grit. Run a test patch before the full application to confirm. Do not use Xylene on primers.

Should Xylene or another solvent be used on a surface before applying Metcote?

A solvent is not required before Metcote; the surface just needs to be roughed up and cleaned of all residue. Xylene (Xylol) can be used if you prefer, as long as the surface is completely dry before Metcote goes on.

If a primer was applied a while ago, can I just rough it up and apply Durabak?

No, primers do not work like paints and cannot simply be scuffed and overcoated after they have aged. Follow the overcoat timeline the primer manufacturer specifies, and with Durabak aim for the first third of that overcoat window.

How do you prep cold rolled steel?

Cold rolled steel needs the mill oil removed, then a primer, then Durabak. Solvent-clean to strip the protective oil it ships in, apply a 2K epoxy primer per the manufacturer's instructions (which may include a light sanding), then apply two successive coats of Durabak at the recommended wet film thickness of 17 to 25 mils per coat.

How does Durabak bond to EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) rubber?

Durabak bonds very well to EPDM rubber. Durabak's Safti Trax and its rubber samples are made from EPDM.

What is the required prep on cold rolled steel?

If the cold rolled steel has been in service and its protective oil layer is gone, a 2K aluminum primer works, but the surface still needs roughening. On a roller, coating that wraps all the way around can shrink on, which helps the bond. An etching primer will not bite into hardened steel and will fail, so do not rely on one there.

How do I prepare my surface for Durabak?

Every surface must be clean, dry, and rough before Durabak is applied. For material-specific steps, see the Surface Prep by Material section, or consult the product manual or a Durabak representative at 303-690-7190.

Can I use chlorine or chlorine-based cleaners on Durabak?

No. Chlorine fades Durabak's color and attacks its chemical composition, which damages the coating. Use a non-chlorinated cleaner instead.

Does Durabak require a primer?

In most cases Durabak does not require a primer, though one may be needed for some metal applications, particularly bare aluminum and other light metals. An adhesion test is always recommended. For specifics, consult the product manual or a Durabak representative at 303-690-7190.

What primers are recommended?

The right primer depends on the substrate:

• Bare metal, including steel: use Cote-L Megaprime EP-90, the two-part epoxy primer formulated for Durabak, which bonds to most metals and inhibits rust. On aluminum, abrade to bright metal and run a test area first, since some aircraft and marine grades are hard to bond.
• Durabak's own primer: one quart of EP-90 covers about the same area as one gallon of Durabak, roughly 70 square feet. Other urethane primers also work well.
• Fiberglass: use a two-part water-based epoxy.

What type of sandpaper should I use to roughen the surface?

Use 40 grit sandpaper to prep the substrate. That profile lets Durabak form a mechanical bond in addition to its chemical bond. For overcoating cured Durabak, use 80 grit.

Can I use acetone to help prep the surface?

Acetone is not recommended. If there is no other option, make sure it has fully evaporated with none left on the surface, because acetone will damage Durabak if the two make contact.

Does the metal primer or Zinc Chromate need to be roughed up before applying Durabak?

No. The aluminum or metal should be roughed up before the self-etching primer goes on, but the primer itself does not need scuffing before Durabak. Fiberglass is different: the two-part water-based epoxy should be roughed up before Durabak, and the fiberglass beneath should be roughed up before the primer.

Does Durabak bond to glass?

Durabak does not bond to glass on its own. A primer compatible with both glass and Durabak might allow it, but that would need to be confirmed before relying on it.

Can Durabak be applied to marble?

No, Durabak does not usually bond properly to marble.

Can Durabak be applied over Rhino Liner?

Yes, with proper prep Durabak bonds to most other bedliners, including Rhino Liner. Rough it up with 40 grit and wipe with Xylene before coating.

How should an existing aftermarket bedliner be prepped for Durabak?

Rough the existing bedliner up with 40 grit and wipe it with Xylene, which lets Durabak bond to most aftermarket liners. It may not bond to every liner, so a test patch first is worthwhile.

Can Metcote be used on painted areas next to bare metal?

No, Metcote is not recommended on paint because it will eat through it. Keep Metcote on the bare metal only.

Which colors have white rubber in them?

White, cream, light grey, and bright red.

What primer is needed on steel?

Steel usually needs little prep and often no primer, since it is normally already rough. A bit of roughing and a wipe-down with Xylene is generally enough.

Can acetone be used to prep the surface before applying Durabak?

Acetone can be used to clean the surface, but it must fully evaporate before coating, so wash it off and let it dry before applying Durabak. Avoid it on very porous surfaces like concrete, and never mix it into the Durabak itself.

Can Durabak be applied over varnished wood?

Yes. Varnish is usually a type of polyurethane, so Durabak should bond well to it once it is roughed up properly.

Does Durabak bond to methyl methacrylate (MMA) flooring, such as BASF Degadur?

Yes, Durabak bonds well to MMA flooring with light sanding, a solvent wipe-down, and then immediate application.

Why is there bleed-through on two coats of Durabak from the caulking below?

The caulking most likely contains something like bitumen that bleeds through, and the fix is an inorganic blocking filler rather than a primer alone. Add about 2% mica powder to Durabak, roughly 20 grams per quart or 80 grams per gallon; mica forms platelets that stop the bleed-through. If sourcing mica is impractical, find a locally available primer that contains mica or a similar blocking filler. Whatever is bleeding will pass through any organic film, whether epoxy, acrylic, or urethane, so only an inert inorganic filler powder will block it.

Application

How much textured Durabak do I need to cover my Jeep?

A two-door Jeep (such as a CJ or TJ) takes about one gallon of textured Durabak to coat the full exterior, and one gallon of smooth covers the same two-door exterior. Larger and four-door Jeeps need about two gallons of textured for the exterior. The tub alone can be done with a single gallon. To size any job precisely, measure the surface and divide by 60 square feet per gallon for textured or 75 for smooth, both at the recommended two coats.

How can I check that Durabak will work for my surface?

Run a small adhesion test before committing to the full project. Durabak bonds to a wide range of materials, but some need more prep than others, so order an extra quart to test on the actual substrate.

• Clean the surface thoroughly with a non-chlorinated detergent.
• Roughen it with 40-grit sandpaper.
• Wipe with Xylene (also called Xylol) and let it dry completely.
• Apply the first coat of Durabak.
• Once the first coat is at light tack (normally about 1 hour), apply the second coat.
• Let it dry for a couple of days. It will not be fully cured yet, which is the point.
• Try to peel it off with a screwdriver. If it lifts in small pieces, the bond is good. If it lifts in sheets, prime with a product compatible with the substrate that can be overcoated with a polyurethane, then repeat the test.

Can I patch and recoat Durabak?

Yes, Durabak can be applied over itself at any time, whether to add color, change color, or smooth out texture by topcoating with smooth. Add one or two coats over the existing coating. The prep depends on how long ago the previous coat went down.

• 2 days to 6 weeks: lightly scuff the surface (around 100-grit) and wipe gently with Xylene.
• 6 weeks and longer: scuff aggressively with 40-grit and wipe down with Xylene.

How do I apply Durabak to a bumper, fender flares, and similar parts?

Prep the surface, then roll on two coats (a third coat adds wear resistance on high-abrasion parts). Clean with a non-chlorinated household detergent, scuff with 40-grit sandpaper, wipe down with Xylene on a cloth, and let it dry completely before coating.

• Do not open the can until the surface is prepped and ready. Then stir well.
• Pour a portion into a roller tray. Roll the first textured coat with a Durabak stipple roller sleeve, or a short-nap roller (3/16 inch mohair) for smooth.
• Use a brush in corners and hard-to-reach areas. Stir occasionally, and keep the lid on the can while not in use.

One gallon of textured covers about 60 square feet at two coats, and smooth covers about 75 square feet per gallon at two coats. The consistency should be drippy, since Durabak is self-leveling. If it is thicker, add up to 15% Xylene to bring it back to a drippy, mixable state. If it is pasty and will not thin out, do not apply it; call 303-690-7190 for help.

Work time is roughly 3 to 5 hours once the can is opened, because Durabak begins to cure on contact with air. Apply the second coat 1 to 24 hours after the first, once it is at light tack (nominal window 6 to 12 hours). Wait 6 to 12 hours before light foot traffic and about 4 days for full cure before heavy use. Apply between 32 and 95 degrees F, with the substrate at least 45 degrees F; around 60 degrees F or warmer is ideal. Clean up any misapplied Durabak immediately with Xylene. If taping, use 3M Blue tape and pull it right after the second coat at the taped edges, then finish the rest of the second coat.

How do I apply smooth Durabak for a clean finish?

Use a short-nap roller (3/16 inch mohair or similar) and build two coats over properly prepped substrate (if the surface is uncoated, prep it first to suit the substrate: clean with a non-chlorinated detergent, scuff, and solvent-wipe, as detailed in the Surface Prep by Material section). Clean with a non-chlorinated household detergent, scuff with 100-grit sandpaper, wipe down with Xylene, and let it dry completely before coating.

• Do not open the can until the surface is ready, then stir well.
• Pour a portion into a roller tray and roll the first coat with the short-nap roller.
• Brush corners and tight areas. Stir occasionally and keep the lid on between passes.

One gallon of smooth covers about 75 square feet at two coats. Keep the consistency drippy and self-leveling; if it is thick, add up to 15% Xylene until it is mixable and drippy again. Do not apply it pasty; call 303-690-7190 for help.

Work time is about 3 to 5 hours once opened. Apply the second coat 1 to 24 hours after the first, once it is at light tack (nominal window 6 to 12 hours). Wait 6 to 12 hours before walking on it and about 4 days for full cure. Apply between 32 and 95 degrees F, with the substrate at least 45 degrees F; around 60 degrees F or warmer is ideal. Clean misapplied Durabak immediately with Xylene. If taping, use 3M Blue tape and remove it right after the second coat at the edges, then continue.

How do I apply textured Durabak to a truck bed or vehicle?

Roll two coats with a Durabak stipple roller sleeve (two sleeves per gallon, included) over prepped substrate (if the surface is uncoated, prep it first to suit the substrate: clean with a non-chlorinated detergent, scuff, and solvent-wipe, as detailed in the Surface Prep by Material section). Clean with a non-chlorinated household detergent, scuff with 80-grit sandpaper, wipe down with Xylene, and let it dry completely before coating.

• Do not open the can until the surface is ready, then stir well so the rubber granules stay suspended.
• Pour a portion into a roller tray and roll the first coat with the stipple sleeve.
• Brush corners and tight areas. Stir occasionally and keep the lid on between passes.

One gallon of textured covers about 60 square feet at two coats. Keep the consistency drippy and self-leveling; if it is thick, add up to 15% Xylene until it is mixable and drippy again. Do not apply it pasty; call 303-690-7190 for help.

Work time is about 3 to 5 hours once opened. Apply the second coat 1 to 24 hours after the first, once it is at light tack (nominal window 6 to 12 hours). Wait 6 to 12 hours before light foot traffic and about 4 days for full cure. Apply between 32 and 95 degrees F, with the substrate at least 45 degrees F; around 60 degrees F or warmer is ideal. Clean misapplied Durabak immediately with Xylene. If taping, use 3M Blue tape and remove it right after the second coat at the edges, then continue.

Can products be dipped into Durabak for easier coating?

Dipping has worked for tools, with some success. On larger or more complex parts, sagging becomes a factor, so dipping is not reliable there.

Does Durabak coat over Sherwin-Williams exterior oil stain?

It should bond well, but run a test patch first to confirm before the full project.

Can Durabak be applied in direct sunlight?

Durabak can be applied in direct sunlight, but a hot, sun-baked surface speeds the cure and shortens working time, so a coat can set before it fully self-levels. Coat early or late in the day when the surface is cooler, keep the film thin and moving, and watch the working time closely on hot panels. This concerns application conditions; for how Durabak holds up to sun over time, see Is Durabak UV-resistant.

What is the maximum substrate temperature for applying Durabak?

The maximum substrate temperature for application is 90 degrees F, and the substrate should be at least 5 degrees F above the dew point.

How do I apply Duraflakes or add decorative pieces?

Apply one coat (two is fine) in the color of your choice, and while it is still wet, scatter the decorative pieces on top. Let it dry completely, then lock everything in with one clear topcoat.

What should I do if Durabak starts to bubble?

Bubbling usually shows up in very high humidity, around 70% or sometimes lower. Stir the can for 10 minutes, let it sit for 10 minutes, and the bubbles should dissipate; repeat until they settle. Pour slowly into the tray or bucket to avoid introducing more air, and time the application for early or late in the day when humidity is lower.

If Durabak is tacky after a while, can I apply a second coat?

Yes, as long as it is on the dry side of tacky, meaning no coating transfers to your hand when you touch it. Consider adding accelerator to the second coat to help both coats cure.

If Durabak is still tacky after a few days, what should I do?

Durabak cures by reacting with atmospheric moisture, so very low humidity slows the cure. Raise the moisture in the air. In dry conditions, use the accelerator. If the coating is already down, bring a humidifier into the space, mist the air (keeping mist off the coated surface), or set wet rags around the area.

Can Durabak be applied directly to thin carpet, such as on a boat?

Yes, it has been done. The carpet must be dry, and Durabak then bonds to it very well.

If the existing coating is peeling or flaking, does it all need stripping, or will Durabak seal it?

Strip the entire surface first. Durabak should go onto the most solid substrate possible, so a coating that is already failing has to come off rather than be sealed over.

Do tires need rebalancing after being coated with Durabak?

Rebalancing is advised after coating tires.

Can Durabak be applied over oil-based Rustoleum?

Yes, if the existing paint is sound. Clean off surface dirt, rinse with water, score with 80-grit sandpaper, and coat. No primer is needed.

Can an air-powered gun be used with smooth Durabak?

Yes, smooth Durabak can be sprayed with an air-powered gun. A sprayer introduces more air into the product, but it also lays down thinner coats, which lets you build a defect-free finish. Thin the product adequately with Xylene and keep the coats thin.

How are sample chips applied?

Both smooth and textured sample chips are applied with a roller.

My Durabak is very thick. Do I have a bad batch?

Not necessarily. The consistency should be drippy, similar to maple syrup, since Durabak is self-leveling. If it is thicker, add up to 15% Xylene; it should become mixable and return to a drippy form. If it will not thin out to that state, it may be a bad batch.

How do I test if my surface is ready for a Durabak application?

Always run a small adhesion test before applying Durabak.

• Clean the surface, rinse with water, and let it dry.
• Roughen it with 40-grit sandpaper.
• Wipe with Xylene on a rag to remove any cleaning residue.
• Apply the first coat of Durabak and let it dry.
• Apply the second coat and let it dry for 2 days.
• Try to peel it off with a screwdriver. If it lifts in small pieces, the bond is good. If it lifts in sheets, re-prime according to the primer manufacturer's instructions.

What can I use to apply Durabak?

Durabak can be applied with a spray gun, brush, or roller. For textured, roll with the Durabak stipple roller sleeve; for smooth, use a 3/16 inch nap mohair roller. For spray application, follow the dedicated spray instructions below.

Spraying Durabak

Can Durabak be sprayed?

Yes. Textured can be sprayed with most conventional spray equipment, but it needs a large tip (1/4 inch) and should be thinned with Xylene by about 10%. Smooth sprays through a standard spray gun with a tip size of .021 inch to .023 inch (21 to 23 thou).

Make sure the compressed-air lines have efficient water traps, because wet compressed air will harden Durabak in the gun. When spraying, wear a NIOSH-approved supplied-air respirator, or a full-face respirator fitted with organic-vapor cartridges plus P100 particulate filters. A dust or nuisance mask is not sufficient, because the isocyanate in Durabak is a respiratory sensitizer.

Should I spray or roll Durabak, and how does it compare with two-part liners?

For most DIY jobs, rolling is the simplest way to apply Durabak: textured goes on with a stipple roller sleeve and smooth with a short-nap mohair roller, with a brush for corners. Spraying is an option for large or smooth jobs but needs thinning and the right tip (see Can Durabak be sprayed?). Either way, Durabak is a one-part coating that rolls on with no mixing, unlike two-part kits such as Raptor and Monstaliner that must be mixed before use, which is an application difference rather than a chemistry or durability claim. For the full side-by-side, see the comparison page: how Durabak compares with other liners.

How do I maintain and clean my Durabak?

For routine cleaning and mildew, Zep Mold Stain and Mildew Stain Remover works well: spray on, scrub, and rinse off. If the coating turns cloudy or white, a solvent-based tire shine in a spray bottle restores the finish.

Can I get away with applying only one coat of Durabak?

No, always apply two thin coats. Multiple thin coats are better than one thick coat: they preserve the integrity of the urethane and avoid trapping CO2 bubbles that form as the coating cures.

Can I apply more than two coats of Durabak?

Yes. Two thin coats is the standard, but additional thin coats can be added for more wear or water resistance, as long as each one goes on thin.

What is the approximate thickness of two coats?

At the recommended two coats, Durabak builds a dry film of 29 to 39 mils for both textured and smooth.

How long do I wait between coats?

Durabak cures by reacting with air and humidity, so the wait depends on climate. In humid environments such as Florida, the second coat can go on within about an hour; in drier climates such as Colorado, it may take up to two hours. Apply the second coat once the first is touch dry.

I have Durabak left over. How should I preserve it?

Once a can is opened, plan to use the full contents, because Durabak begins to cure on contact with air and should not be resealed for later use. If some is left, transfer it to the smallest container it will fill completely, leaving minimal air space, and seal it. This may extend its usable life, though it will not reliably keep.

Can I mix two colors of Durabak for a custom color?

Yes, but only like with like: the Durabak 18 Outdoor/UV line only mixes with itself, and original Durabak only mixes with original Durabak; the two lines cannot be mixed together. Stir thoroughly, since shaking alone will not blend the contents. Custom colors can be matched to any standard with sufficient lead time and a minimum order of 75 gallons.

How do I clean Durabak-coated surfaces?

Durabak can be cleaned with most common household detergents and degreasers. Organic stains respond to a quaternary cleaner. Do not use chlorinated cleaners such as Clorox, as they can affect the color of the coating.

What is used to clean up or thin Durabak during application?

Use Xylene (also called Xylol) to clean up and thin Durabak; in California and Utah, use Solvide. Durabak can be thinned with up to 15% Xylene to reach the right consistency, which should be drippy but not runny, since the product is self-leveling.

What are the temperature limits of Durabak?

Cured Durabak has been tested as low as -40 degrees F and withstands continuous temperatures up to 254 degrees F with no adverse reactions. For application, the recommended range is 32 to 95 degrees F.

How do I get additional information?

Call 303-690-7190 or email to request a free brochure. Specify the color sample chip you would like to see.

Can I apply Durabak if it is going to rain?

Wait for a dry day whenever possible. If application cannot wait, plan so the second coat reaches the walk-on stage (about 6 to 12 hours under standard 77 degrees F and 50% humidity conditions) before any rain reaches the surface.

Does Durabak need to be cleaned, and will dirt cause cracking or peeling?

Dirt will not harm the coating. It does not make Durabak more likely to crack, and it has no effect on whether it peels.

Can I apply Durabak to my warehouse floor?

Yes, but run sample tests in several areas of the warehouse before the full application, since some areas may bond while others do not. Spots contaminated with oil, for example, need the oil removed with an emulsifier before coating.

Does Durabak run on vertical surfaces, and should one color dry before applying a second?

Two colors can be applied either at the same time, separated with 3M Blue tape, or one after the other by letting the first color dry before the second. Both approaches have worked well.

Can I speed up the drying process?

Yes, Durabak offers an accelerator for both its UV and non-UV products that speeds drying by about 50%. Match the accelerator to the product: the non-UV accelerator is only for non-UV Durabak, and the UV accelerator only for the UV product.

Is there an activator?

No, Durabak is a moisture-cured product, so the air and the humidity in it are the activator.

Does smooth Durabak leave brush strokes?

Generally no. Smooth applies cleanly with a short-nap roller (3/16 inch mohair or similar) and usually shows no strokes, though it is more sensitive than textured. The rubber granules make textured more forgiving, while smooth takes a little more care and skill from the applicator.

Where can I find the batch number?

The batch number is on the bottom of the can (and will be added to the side as well). It is used for quality issues, since it can be checked against the retained sample held by the manufacturer.

How do I remove mildew growing in Durabak?

Start with a good household detergent to remove the mildew. Mildew can develop where Durabak was applied too thick, because CO2 releasing from the bottom coat can get trapped and form a bubble or crevice that holds moisture. A quaternary cleaner is the next step if detergent is not enough. A mildew preventative such as an antibacterial additive can also be mixed into Durabak at the time of application.

What can I use instead of Xylene where it cannot be sold, such as California?

Solvide can be used in place of Xylene in California and Utah.

Can Durabak be applied to a water cooling tower?

Yes, but be selective about which areas. Durabak should not be applied where it may contact drinking water.

Are sample chips single or double coated?

The chips are not uniform. Hold a textured chip up to the light: if it looks see-through, it is a single coat. A two-coat chip carries more rubber granules and looks heavier and thicker, while a one-coat chip looks lighter and thinner.

How does Safti-Trax work?

Safti-Trax is a 2-by-2 mat with rubber domes coated with three coats of Durabak. A strong adhesive holds it in place. The mats can be cut to fit an area with scissors, but they are not designed to be peeled apart at the perforations.

How should Durabak be rolled on?

Roll it on the same way you would roll paint, working back and forth. For best results, roll the second coat at a 45-degree angle to the first, though this is not required.

Can I use Durabak on the bottom of a pool or the underside of a boat?

No, Durabak is not made to stay submerged. Around a pool it is better avoided unless a chlorine substitute is used, since chlorine attacks the polyurethane. On a boat it can be applied to areas above the waterline.

Can the can be resealed?

No. Once a can of Durabak is opened, use the entire contents, because the product begins to cure on contact with air. It should not be resealed for future use.

What surfaces can Durabak be applied to?

Durabak can be applied to concrete, metal, wood, fiberglass, rubber, tile, plastic, and more. It sticks to plastic and bonds with carbon fiber, and it adheres well to concrete and over sound paint. On bare metal, add a metal-etching primer first so the Durabak adheres properly.

How do I apply Durabak to a specific material?

Durabak applies to a wide range of surfaces and materials, each with its own prep. A comprehensive set of material-specific instruction guides covers how to bond Durabak to each one. See the Surface Prep by Material section for the per-material steps.

What is the fire resistance rating for Durabak?

In Durabak's published testing, Durabak measured a flame spread index of 01 (ASTM E-162) and smoke generation of 06 (ASTM E-662). These are tested values, not a fire-resistance rating. For added fire resistance, a fire-retardant additive can be mixed into Durabak.

Durabak popped right up after I applied it over zinc chromate. What went wrong?

The chromate most likely had not finished reacting. Durabak should not go on roughly 30 minutes after the chromate; the chromate needs time to react on the metal first. Allow 24 to 36 hours before overcoating it with Durabak.

How can I remove the glossy sheen for a more matte finish?

There are two ways. The better method is to add a fine powder such as talc, about 10% by weight, to flatten the finish; keep Xylene on hand because the powder will thicken the product. The other method is sanding with fine P400 paper, which works only on smooth Durabak, not textured. The surface must be dry before either.

Can Durabak be applied to axles?

Yes. Durabak withstands high heat, so it is fine on front and back axles. One caution: its tight bond can hold heat in, so the axle may shed heat slightly less easily, though no problems of that kind have been reported.

Why is rust forming on Durabak that was applied over a rust-free surface?

The cause is moisture reaching the steel. That happens one of two ways: water was trapped under the Durabak at application, or water entered later through channels in the cured film. Those channels form where the coating went on too thick and CO2 gas was slow to release. To fix it, sand the rusted areas back to bare steel and apply two very thin coats of Durabak with a small brush.

Can I apply Durabak over rust?

Yes, but only with proper prep, or the rust will keep spreading under the coating. Remove all loose and flaky rust so that only hardened surface rust remains. Seal that rust with a polyurethane-compatible chemical rust neutralizer that turns it black, such as SEM Rust Stop. The neutralizer acts as the primer, so no additional primer is needed; apply Durabak straight onto the treatment within the first third of the neutralizer's stated overcoat window.

How does Durabak hold up to heavy foot traffic, and how many coats are recommended?

Two coats handle heavy foot traffic on a surface that is not very porous. For reference, Durabak was used in a two-coat application on a Long Island Rail Road platform that sees roughly 80,000 people cross it daily, and it held up well.

Product Specs

Durabak Outdoor/UV vs original Durabak: what is the difference?

Durabak 18 Outdoor/UV is the outdoor, sun-and-weather grade and original Durabak is the indoor grade; both come in textured and smooth finishes, so the difference is the formulation, not the finish. Durabak 18 Outdoor/UV is an aliphatic polyurethane, which resists the chalking and yellowing seen from aromatic coatings such as Herculiner, and it dries faster than the original. The manufacturer states a service life of 10 to 15 years for the coating. For outdoor or UV-exposed projects, use Durabak 18 Outdoor/UV; against other aliphatic liners such as Raptor and Monstaliner the chemistry is the same class, so neither side holds a UV edge there.

Does Durabak act as a conductor of electricity?

No, Durabak does not conduct electricity; it acts as an insulator.

What are the different versions of Durabak?

Durabak comes in textured and smooth finishes, in an indoor version (original Durabak) and an outdoor version (Durabak 18 Outdoor/UV), with Durabak M26 formulated for military use. All versions are a one-part, moisture-cured polyurethane at 75.8% solids by volume, and at the recommended two coats they build a 29 to 39 mil dry film. Choose the outdoor version for sun and weather exposure and the textured finish where you want a non-skid surface.

Can I tint Durabak to achieve a custom color?

Durabak can be tinted only with a non-water-based paste pigment; a water-based pigment causes a severe bubbling reaction with the coating. Once a pigment is added, apply the Durabak the same day, because exposing it to air and moisture starts the curing process. Stir the can contents very thoroughly before use, since shaking alone will not mix them completely. Custom colors can be produced to any standard given sufficient lead time and a minimum order of 75 gallons.

Does Durabak come with tinted pigment for DIY color adjustment?

No, Durabak is not sold with a separate tinting pigment for customer use. Durabak starts as a clear solution and has 250 grams of pigment added to reach a specific color, so adjusting an existing color requires a much smaller dose than creating a new one. Some customers add a quart or two of smooth Durabak to shift a color, or have an auto body shop supply a urethane tint that is compatible with a moisture-cured, one-part polyurethane; results from outside tints are the customer's responsibility. Certain colors tint poorly: white carries a large amount of pigment and is a weak choice for tinting, while dark grey tints well toward black and sand or beige tints well toward red.

What is the shelf life of Durabak?

Apply Durabak within 6 months of purchase for best results; an unopened can is held to be free of defects for up to 12 months. Whether the can is new or older, mix it very thoroughly before use, because the solids inside can separate and settle to the bottom.

Can Durabak be used on asbestos?

Asbestos is a hazardous, regulated material, and the recommended and safe approach is professional removal by a licensed asbestos-abatement contractor before any coating is applied. Durabak is not positioned as an asbestos encapsulant. Any decision about encapsulation, and any air-quality verification, must be handled by certified professionals in line with local regulations.

What is Durabak M26?

Durabak M26 is the military-grade version of Durabak, listed on the United States military's MIL-PRF-32171B Qualified Products List. It shares the same one-part, moisture-cured polyurethane base as the standard product. For consumer projects, the standard textured and smooth Durabak are the right choice.

What color is the Metcote primer?

The Metcote primer is beige, and there is no color choice.

What is the Durabak aggregate?

The rubber aggregate in textured Durabak is 16% by weight.

What is the difference between Bright Red and Brick Red?

Bright Red and Brick Red use the same pigmentation but different-color rubber granules, and the granule color changes how dark the red reads once it is mixed in.

Are the textured and smooth of a single color the same tint?

The textured and smooth versions of one color can differ slightly in tint, because the textured version contains black or white rubber granules that make it darker or lighter. The texture itself also casts shades that give the surface a darker appearance.

Are the color tints the same every year for touching up a job?

Within a single color there can be a slight variation in pigment between batches, since no two batches are produced identically. The difference is usually not noticeable.

Is the only difference between UV and non-UV Durabak aesthetic?

No, the difference is chemical, not just appearance. The UV version (Durabak 18 Outdoor/UV) is an aliphatic polyurethane formulated to resist chalking and yellowing in sunlight, while the non-UV version is intended for indoor or shaded use and can discolor under prolonged sun. Both build the same 29 to 39 mil film at two coats and apply the same way, and the UV grade also dries faster. For sun-exposed projects, choose the UV version.

What are the color names for the various colors of Durabak?

The Durabak colors map to these reference names (color chips are scanned with white balance for accuracy, and screens vary, so the named color can be searched for a closer match):

• Dark Blue: "Signal Blue" RAL 5005
• Light Blue: "Jordy Blue"
• Cream: "Lemon Chiffon"
• Sand: a slightly darker "Ecru White" or light "Sourdough"
• Yellow: "School Bus Yellow"
• Red: "Fire Brick"
• Forest Green: "Zucchini"
• Tan: "Apache"
• Olive Green: "Tom Thumb"
• Orange: "Scarlet"
• Dark Grey: "Grey 40%"
• Light Grey: "White Pointer"
• Brown: "Saddle Brown"

Customer application photos are available on the Durabak pictures and ideas page.

What solvent is used in Durabak?

The solvent for thinning and cleanup is Xylene (also called Xylol); in California and Utah, use Solvide instead.

What is the Durabak Static Coefficient of Friction (SCOF)?

Durabak's published testing puts the textured finish at a static coefficient of friction of 0.95 to 0.98 dry and 1.41 wet (ASTM D1894). For reference, 0.5 is considered anti-skid and the US Navy requires 0.6, so the textured finish clears both thresholds. The smooth finish is not slip-rated.

Where can I find the Durabak technical data sheet (TDS)?

The Durabak technical data sheets are available on the Durabak technical information page, which links to the TDS for each grade (Durabak-18 Outdoor / UV, Durabak Indoor, Durabak-18 Clear Coat, and Durabak M26 Military). Each TDS lists the complete physical properties, ASTM test results, cure and recoat schedule, and application specs, and it is the source document behind the coverage, film build, and performance figures throughout this FAQ.

Durability and Performance

Was Durabak included in the Project Farm bed-liner test?

Yes, Durabak was included in Project Farm's independent bed-liner test. It ranked first for adhesion, holding 595 pounds of pull on bare steel and 641 pounds on primed steel, and the test named Durabak the overall winner of the roll-on comparison. Those results cover bond strength and impact, not lifespan. For the full breakdown across all the products tested, see the comparison page: Project Farm's verdict.

Is Durabak UV-resistant, and does it yellow outdoors?

Yes, with the right grade Durabak resists UV and is formulated not to yellow. For sun and UV exposure, use smooth Durabak 18 Outdoor/UV, an aliphatic polyurethane formulated to resist the chalking and yellowing that aromatic coatings like Herculiner tend to show under prolonged sun. Against other aliphatic liners such as Raptor and Monstaliner the chemistry is the same class, so that is parity rather than an edge. The manufacturer states a service life of 10 to 15 years for the coating. For the full UV and sun-exposure breakdown, see the comparison page: UV and sun exposure.

How long does Durabak last?

Durabak does not carry a published lifespan, but the manufacturer states a service life of 10 to 15 years for the coating. Actual life depends on surface prep, film build, and how hard the surface is used: at the recommended two coats Durabak builds a 29 to 39 mil dry film, which is what carries the wear. Verified Okendo customer reviews on the product pages add real-world feedback from owners. For toughness specifically, Durabak ranked first for adhesion in Project Farm's independent bed-liner test, holding 595 pounds of pull on bare steel, though that measures bond strength and impact, not lifespan.

Can I use Durabak on my boat?

Yes, Durabak is widely used on boats, and on decks it gives a non-skid surface above the waterline. Use smooth Durabak 18 Outdoor/UV for sun-exposed areas, since it is an aliphatic polyurethane that resists chalking and yellowing. Prep depends on the hull: bare aluminum needs a metal etch primer, while fiberglass and gel coat need a 40 grit scuff and a Xylene wipe before coating. Durabak is water resistant and built for above-waterline marine use, and it is not meant to stay submerged.

How does Durabak withstand petroleum products like gasoline, oils, and transmission fluids?

Durabak offers fair resistance to gasoline, oils, and transmission fluids; it holds up with occasional contact when kept clean, but for prolonged fuel contact, field-test suitability first. Choose a darker color such as black or dark grey for these uses. If a specific spot gets damaged, Durabak can be reapplied over itself for a clean finish.

How does Durabak hold up to 6,000 lb forklifts riding over it?

Durabak handles forklift traffic well and is used on warehouse floors with forklifts running over it regularly. This assumes rubber wheels, which most modern forklifts have, and a driver who is not repeatedly jerking the wheel back and forth on one spot. In Project Farm's independent bed-liner test it ranked first for adhesion, holding 595 pounds of pull on bare steel and 641 pounds on primed steel, the bond strength that lets it stand up to point loading and dragged weight.

How does Durabak withstand nitric acid and other acids?

Durabak resists weak acids in occasional contact but is not suitable for permanent immersion in strong acids such as concentrated nitric. For a specific exposure, test on the actual chemistry or contact Durabak for confirmation.

Can Durabak be baked to accelerate cure time, or withstand a bake process?

Durabak can withstand a controlled bake, and heat does accelerate the cure. One operation applying Durabak to Penske trucks coated steel rectangles, suspended them from an overhead conveyor, and ran them through a vertical heating mechanism with heating elements floor to ceiling; the Durabak was dry in 5 minutes. Run a trial first, since the temperature and the elapsed time from application both vary.

Does Durabak leach or release pollutants when sitting in water?

No. Once cured, Durabak does not leach, so it releases no pollutants.

How comfortable is Durabak on bare feet?

Durabak is comfortable underfoot, since the recycled rubber tire granules give some flex and the surface has no sharp edges. The texture can be customized by blending smooth Durabak into textured Durabak: adding 1 gallon of smooth to 1 gallon of textured cuts the texture by about half. Smooth Durabak is fully smooth, so comfort is not a question there.

Does Durabak prevent rust?

Durabak's tight bond normally inhibits future rust on a rust-free surface when it is properly applied at two coats, because the bonded film keeps moisture off the metal. Priming can help. If rust is present before application, remove it first with a chemical rust neutralizer, available at an industrial paint or hardware store; check the product label for guidance on timing and any precautions about top coating.

Is Durabak non heat absorbing? Will it keep a boat from heating up?

There is no test data certifying Durabak as non heat absorbing. That said, coating bare aluminum in a light color reduces the heat reaching the feet, and an extra coat or two adds to that effect.

Is Durabak heat resistant?

Durabak withstands continuous temperatures up to 254 degrees F. It works well as an undercoating but should normally be kept away from the exhaust pipe.

Can Durabak non-UV be used inside a van?

Non-UV Durabak is fine inside a van or enclosed trailer as long as exposure to sunlight is kept to a minimum. Sunlight through tinted windows or through open doors is unlikely to cause fading, though some discoloration is possible over time.

Can Durabak be used to waterproof, such as for an RV roof?

Durabak is highly water resistant rather than waterproof, and many customers have coated RV roofs with it with good results over the years. Add an extra coat or two for additional water resistance.

Can the surface be cleaned with bleach before applying Durabak?

Yes, the surface can be cleaned with bleach beforehand, but the standard prep must still follow: rough up the surface and wipe it with Xylene (Xylol) before applying Durabak.

Can Durabak be cleaned with bleach?

No, bleach is not recommended for cleaning Durabak. Household cleaners such as Spic and Span normally do the job. If cured Durabak has turned cloudy or white, a solvent-based tire shine can restore its appearance.

Can non-UV Durabak be used as the undercoat with UV Durabak as the second coat?

Yes, using non-UV as the undercoat and UV Durabak as the topcoat is a good way to save some money, with the same results and the same service life. Make sure the non-UV coat is completely dry before applying the UV overcoat, which means longer than the usual 1 hour between coats.

Is Gluvit epoxy sealer compatible with Durabak?

Gluvit is not directly compatible with Durabak; it must first be top-coated with Epifanes Multi Marine Primer before Durabak goes on. The procedure is:

• Prep the boat surface: sand, wipe with acetone, wash with soap and water, and dry thoroughly. Make any repairs (larger holes, rot around the drain, and similar), then sand and clean.
• Apply Gluvit (epoxy sealer) and let it cure 7 to 14 days depending on humidity.
• The epoxy cures with an amine blush residue that surfaces after full cure. Remove it with an acetone cleaning, a soap and water scrub, and a dry, then a 120 grit sanding, soap and water, and dry again.
• Apply the marine primer, cure 2 to 4 days, sand with 320 grit, apply a second coat, sand again with 320 grit, and wipe down with denatured alcohol and a lint-free towel to pull any remaining moisture from the primer.
• Apply the final coat or coats of Durabak.

How does Durabak hold up to snow and salt?

Durabak holds up fine to snow and salt.

Shipping, Returns, and Business Accounts

How do I set up a business account for ongoing orders?

Set up a business account by contacting the team by phone at 303-690-7190 or through the contact form. A business account is for ongoing and bulk buyers and includes a 10 percent volume discount on qualifying orders, arranged directly rather than published as a code. Military and first-responder buyers can ask about a 10 percent discount as well. For standard single-unit pricing, see the cost question.

What is the HS code for import tax and tariff purposes?

Durabak's HS code is 3208.90.90.4.

How does Durabak ship?

Most Durabak orders ship within 1 to 2 business days by domestic ground carrier (FedEx or UPS); delivery charges are extra. Larger orders, usually 28 gallons or more, may move by truck-line freight carrier. A customer-specified shipping method can also be requested.

Is next-day shipping available?

No. Durabak ships by ground only, so next-day air shipping is not available.

Does Durabak ship to Alaska or Hawaii?

Yes, but only by sea, and the customer arranges the final leg. Durabak is a hazmat product and cannot ship by air, so it moves by ground to a port (Seattle for Alaska, Los Angeles for Hawaii), and the customer sets up an account with a freight forwarder to complete delivery. This route adds cost and transit time.

How do I place an order?

Orders can be placed through the secure shopping cart at DurabakCompany.com using MasterCard, VISA, or Discover, or by phone at 303-690-7190.

Is Durabak considered a hazardous material?

Yes. Durabak is classified as Class 3 hazardous (UN1263, PAINT, Class 3, Packing Group III). This does not affect ground shipping. We do not offer air shipping for Durabak, and sea shipments require the freight forwarder to complete dangerous-goods paperwork.

What are the box sizes?

A standard gallon box holds 4 gallons (about 40 lbs) and measures 14 in x 14 in x 8 in. A quart box holds 12 quarts (about 30 lbs) and measures 15 in x 11 in x 8 in.

What is the return policy?

Unopened Durabak in resaleable condition can be returned within 30 days, subject to a 20% restocking fee. The initial shipping charge is not refunded, and the customer pays return shipping. Because Durabak is a hazmat product, FedEx and UPS rules allow only a hazmat-authorized shipper to ship it, so a call tag is arranged for the customer (the call-tag fee is part of the return shipping the customer covers). All returns must be pre-approved by a Durabak representative.

How many gallons are on a pallet?

A pallet holds between 216 and 252 gallons. Each case contains 4 gallons, each row holds 9 cases, and a pallet usually has 6 or 7 rows.

What is the shipment weight?

Gallons ship at about 12 lbs each (1 gal: 12 lbs; 2 gal: 22 lbs; 3 gal: 32 lbs; 4 gal: 42 lbs); quarts ship at about 3 to 4 lbs each (1 qt: 4 lbs; 2 qt: 7 lbs; 3 qt: 10 lbs; 4 qt: 13 lbs).

What is the delivery time?

Delivery usually takes 5 to 10 business days depending on location, shipping from the warehouse in New Jersey.